Wednesday, January 28, 2009

1-27-09

1-25-09
We sailed south to the Ragged Islands into Raccoon Cay where we stayed for a couple of days enjoying snorkeling, hikes and the company of our friends.

One set of friends are from last year and we've stayed in touch with them. They met up with two other boats in Marathon, Florida and crossed into the Bahamas and have sailed together since. We joined them in Georgetown, Bahamas as did the fourth boat. It's nice traveling with others, especially when they are familiar with the best spots. Last night we did a turkey dinner together.

Ed has yet to spear a lobster though not from lack of trying. Yesterday he missed a point blank shot and then the lobster retreated to deep into his hole. Today he speared a couple of small reef fish, yellowtail snappers. These were his first victims, he is going after larger game from now on.

1-28-08
We moved down to Hog Cay, about 12 miles by boat due to shoals but really only about 5 miles southeast of Raccoon. Friday we need to be in an anchorage giving north wind protection and so will move again either tomorrow or Friday. Winds could go to 30K early Saturday after clocking (that is clockwise wind shift) from east today, south and west on Friday.

Ed has caught four good size barracuda which we did not keep but we probably will keep the next one. They are good eating and the locals say there is no problem with ciguatera. They question are sanity for not keeping them!

A beautiful day, 80 degrees, 15K winds and perfectly clear. It's nice that the winds have calmed a bit or maybe we're getting some wind break from the cay. Sweet!

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Sunday, January 25, 2009

1-25-2009

1-23-2009
Long Island seems pretty interesting although we only saw several stores and two restaurants before leaving for the Jumento Cays and Ragged Islands. The island is about 95 miles in length with population spread over the entire length but only about 1 mile wide.

The stores were well stocked and nice. Ed was able to buy two new dinghy plugs after dropping one in unclear water and finding that the spare did not fit well.

We went out for family style Bahamian food: conch fritters, mac&cheese (baked to a cake consistency), rice&beans, ribs, chicken, potato salad and a cash bar. There were also three other boats, two with young children on a four year trip, plus a Nova Scotia couple. It was great fun walking the path to and from the beach to the dirt road to the paved road to the restaurant and the normal night time dinghy ride (no moon). We were all prepared with flashlights. It is easy to find our boat at night because we run a string of Christmas lights (LEDs), otherwise you look at the anchored boats and guess.

1-24-2009
7:30 departure for the Jumento Cays, 43nm at 6k = 7hrs. The wind was very light and at our backs making for motor sailing the entire way. We sure hope tomorrow will be better as we have the same distance to the Ragged Islands. (An island is something bigger, maybe 5 square miles, versus a Cay being bigger than a rock). Islands usually offer better protection options too for anchorages.

Ed caught two barracuda but returned them because we do not know whether they have cigautera poisoning in this area. Certain reef fish and their predators can contain this toxin. Maybe we will catch something tomorrow as we run along the Jumentos.

The clevis pin at the clue of the mainsail fell out yesterday, no great trauma as the winds were very light. Ed thinks he forgot the cotter pin in his rush to put the sail on after the sail repair and depart from Nassau. Ed has put in a bolt with aircraft nut temporarily. He saves all kinds of nuts, bolts and screws besides buying two of things when he gets replacements.

Water Cay, Jumentos is a cute little anchorage with good sand but somewhat rolly. Also, fisherman clean their catches nearby so it's not a great place to snorkel unless you like sharkes. We think we will wait.

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Thursday, January 22, 2009

1-22-09

1-17-09
We traveled to Big Majors Cay which features several feral pigs on the beach and a protected anchorage for all but west quadrant winds. Winds were about 20 knots out of the northeast making for a fast broad reach with excellent protection from the Exuma island chain.

Ed put down the dinghy and off we went to feed the pigs, two sows and one piglet, some crackers. Then he thought to head over to Staniel Cay to visit the yacht club but of course picking a rough wet route and not bringing any cash to even buy a beer! Bad captain.

The next day we went to Big Farmers Cay which offers protection from westerlies which were expected over night. This cay was owned by a freed slave woman who then willed it to any and all of her descendants to live on forever. We anchored off the white beach but the holding was poor so we took a mooring ball.

We went for a walk on the island and visited a man who carves small statues of birds and women. Eventually we ended up at the Ocean Beach Club where we had beers and talked politics with Terry (proprietor) and several boaters. It was all very nice and lowest key. Terry, as are many Bahamians, was very tuned into US politics and extremely hopeful that Obama will lead us well.

1-19-2009
We sailed the 36 miles from Little Farmers to Georgetown right into the anchorage in Kid Harbor using the engine only briefly while weighing anchor and dropping anchor. We used the light air symetric spannaker all the way but still have a lot to learn about exactly how to rig and fly it. Several times we had it collapse on us leading to big pops as it reinflated.

We continue to meet new folks, exchanging boat cards, enjoying sundown drinks and appetizers. Otherwise the nights are too long and boring. One can only read so many books.

We spent a day in Georgetown doing boring stuff like a walk, visit to the library, ferrying jugs of water and buying gas. Little did we realize but the wind came up and northwest during the night such that we bobbed up and down all night. Neither of us slept very well after 1:30. Ed feared that we might be moving as night exaggerates distances between boats and does the opposite with objects. In the morning all was fine but we quickly went across the harbor to Sand Dollar beach where it was protected from the NW winds. Ahhh, peace and quiet and we slept like babies that night.

1-22-09
Off to Thompson Bay, Long Island. We linked up with three other boats for a little while at least. We were supposed to leave at 8am but one of the boats ended up with its anchor chain pulled under a coral head so Ed volunteered to see why it was fouled and free it if possible. So while Ann drove Windswept Dreams around because we had already weighed anchor, Ed put on his mask, snorkel and fins and checked it out. His remedy was to have the other boat circle the coral head clockwise which freed the chain. Ed believes that every favor done for another boater results in even greater benefits to us down the road.

The winds were slightly on the nose today with it ending up to be a 7 hour motor sail, especially the last half when the sails were only up because we had not taken them down. Still it was beautiful and calm as we left the Exumas temporarily for the out islands which is a name given to islands more to the west or south of the major chains.

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Friday, January 16, 2009

January 16, 2009

January 16, 2009
Yesterday we dinghied to the northern part of Normans Cay with two couples in their dinghies and then walked the beaches up there where we came upon two guys, their kiteboards, dinghy and tents. They had a bottle of rum and were playing chess while sitting in lawn furniture they found in the trees. For food they were spear-fishing. Canadiens, they are everywhere down here.

We snorkeled one of the channels on the way back taking about six conch. They gave us a conch cleaning lesson on the beach and today Ann and I made conch salad and fritters. Ummmm! Ann says I need to reduce the number of finger peppers.

The wind is about 20K out of the NE and we are holding well in the sand. We may move south tomorrow staying in the lee of the islands. The weather is cloudy and cool (72, don't laugh we are used to hot days) so no one is too motivated to move anchorages if they are in a good one. We will need to do a book and movie exchange soon if this keeps up.

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Wednesday, January 14, 2009

Jan 14, 2009

I am a little forgetful about where we left off because I am not actually able to look at the blog. I will send this in via our ssb (single-side band) radio email.

We planned to leave Nassau last Thursday which would have been the 8th but our sail repair was not finished. We went to a Cruiser's luncheon hosted by BASRA(Bahamas Air Search Rescue Association) to meet new friends and enjoy a meal out. I waited all afternoon for a call on our new Batelco cell phone only to find out that it sent calls but could not receive. So, we did not get our sail back because they could not contact us to tell us it was ready.

Friday jobs included getting and installing the sail, getting the phone fixed and a little last minute grocery shopping before taking on fuel and water. Naturally all this took more time than expected. We were finally ready about 11:30 but we could not get the anchor to come up. So, Ed donned his snorkel gear and found that the chain had wrapped a big old motor. After about 5 dives he unwrapped it. Then we went for fuel and the pump didn't shut off which sent diesel spraying into the air on the side of the boat and into Ed's hair and a little bit into the bathroom. Ed was not happy.

We finally left about 1:30 which was to late for a 6-7 hour trip to Highbourne Cay so we went to Rose Island nearby and Ed managed to lose his foul mood and just in time because Ann was extremely tired of it! Lo and behold, our friends Jan and Wes were back from Canada so we immediately decided to stay a few days with them. Now Ed was elated to spend time with our great friends.

We snorkeled for hours on several days, walked the beach, visited the Lovejoys at their Rose Island House, had a fish fry with Cracky & Tanya. He makes the best Conch salad. Ed is still trying to sling-spear his first lobster, Wes and Jan have been giving us lessons in buddy snorkeling and team work. Wes took one lobster and a grey snapper which he grilled for lunch.

Today, we left our friends and headed south taking advantage of North winds to head southwest to the Exuma chain. Tomorrow we expect more of the same but stronger winds. It was a nice uneventful sail, both of us took naps at different times of course.

We have friends in George Town, Great Exuma hoping we join them to sail to the Turks and Caicos with them. Our only dilemma is that we should not be hurrying to catch them because we are supposed to be relaxing not rushing. There is a plane wreck here to dive and lots of coral but the winds on Saturday may be weak and variable. So, that is our dilemma. Oh how difficult it all is.

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Wednesday, January 7, 2009

Junkanoo




These two photos capture a bit of the beauty of Junkanoo. Bear in mind that this group had 1800 members and was one of 7 that boasted this many members plus there were many small groups. These large groups contained bands, dancers, floats and all wore elaborate costumes. The festivities began at 2Am on both December 26th and January 1st ending in late morning or early afternoon. All Bahamians take great pride in this spectacle! The spectators cheer their favorites and hotly debate the winning entrees and contest the judges choices. It is quite moving and amusing!

Rachel and Andrea at Allans Cays








Lots of iguanas populate this lovely group of Exuma Islands. We spent a day here snorkeling and picking up shells on December 28th. This is what the girls had in mind when they agreed to join us in the Bahamas!

December 24-December 30

Our daughters, Rachel and Andrea arrived in Nassau on December 23rd for a week long visit.

We enjoyed Christmas with our Bahamian friends, Diane and Averil and their three children, nephew and friends. Ann went over to their house early to cook with Diane and help her prepare turkey, stuffing and mash potatoes. Meanwhile, the girls and I dinghied to a beach at the west end of the harbour plus visiting the harbour at Atlantis to see the mega-yachts. We then went over for a wonderful Christmas dinner.

Junkanoo started at 2AM, December 26th. I woke Ann (as planned) at 2AM, again at 4AM and finally at 5:30AM we went to see the floats and costumes. What a wonderful parade although the participants were already looking exhausted by 10AM when we left but still had 3 hours to go. This is a competitive event with the big groups having almost 1800 people all in costumes that they began in February.

On the 27th we left for Allans Cays (pronounced keys). The weather was rough but the girls really wanted to be on an empty island group. Unfortunately the trip took nine instead of 5 hours due to the high waves and poor wind angle. Still, we arrived before dark and looked forward to a nice day on the 28th. These cays have a large population of iguanas that we fed orange rinds. Later we went snorkeling on a reef midway between Allans and Highbourne cays. We returned uneventfully to Nassau on the 29th after stopping at Rose Island for another beach walk and some snorkeling.

For our final night we enjoyed the cuisine at the Potter's Cay fish fry which consists of various small shacks that due conch chowder, fritters and fish in a very Bahamian style. After dinner we went to Atlantis resort to look at the beautiful aquarium and the resort.

Andrea and Rachel left on the 30th but we enjoyed their company immensely and will miss them.

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